HOW TO JUSTIFY BUYING EVERYTHING FROM DIOR RESORT

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Unless you are extremely lucky, you probably won't get your hands on Raf Simons' Dior Resort collection, which was shown in Monaco at the weekend. I'm a big fan of what Simons is doing at Dior but I think this new Resort offering is particularly fresh; it has that underlying current of being formal which seems integral to Dior but there's also a strong sense of Raf being experimental and fun. In the time-honoured FEAL fashion, I have put my own big head onto some of my personal favourite looks and published them here, along with sound reasons why they should feature in your shopping dreams, or lists if you do so happen to be that lucky.

EVERY WOMAN NEEDS A TROUSER SUIT

It is an apt time for trouser suits which play into the matching thing around a lot right now. The traditional styling boundaries are also being altered all the time. These suits might be worn with the slick heels they were in show but they would be equally right with sharp brogues or even something really casual like Converse. There is something just slightly relaxed in the cut of these jackets (bracelet length sleeves, slightly looses etc) which I think hints that they aren't just for dressing up

 

IT'S ALL ABOUT SEPARATES

Brilliant looks in themselves, with the requisite crop top for those who think their abs are hard enough. But also very pick-apartable. Imagine those silk culottes with a bikini on holiday. Or the tee crop top with one of those huge ballgown skirts from Raf's first Dior ready-to-wear show. Or the slouch trousers with a huge cosy jumper on a Sunday afternoon

 A ZIP DRESS IS AN INCREDIBLY USEFUL THING

There has been much Twitter chatter about the viability of the series of zip dresses which came towards the end of the show. Here, the dress is like a top with a train but in 2 minutes it might become a lovely dress with a little spilt. Plus if you have great shorts, legs or even knickers to show off then this dress lets you do that in quite a new way. If you're a "nothing-above-the-knee" girl then zip up and you're good too.

FOR THE SHEER SHEERNESS OF IT

Are you a work of art? Are you parading your underwear? Did you leave your petticoat at home? Who knows, but you're wearing Dior. 

All catwalk images via Style.com

THE FUNNY THING ABOUT THE GREAT GATSBY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

When I began working in fashion getting on for two years ago, I remember one of the first things I had to do was look at Resort 2012 trends. Casting my eye back over that work, one of my folders is called "Gatsby". At the time, there was much excitement about Baz Luhrrman's forthcoming new film adaptation of The Great Gatsby which was being filmed at the time.

Carey Mulligan in The Great Gatsby (via telegraph.co.uk)

Thinking back, I'm not sure there's been a single week for the ensuing two years that an excited "Get the Gatsby Look!" e-mail hasn't popped into my inbox. No wonder, in a way, that lots of us were over it by the time it finally premiered at Cannes Film Festival last week. Our and America's obsession with Downton Abbey has also significantly contributed to a stringing out of the glitzy flapper girl thing. Remember Ralph Lauren's 20s and 30s English aristo homage for AW12? That seemed to plug the lull between on-set pictures of Gatsby filming, confusion about release dates and then, finally, the marketing campaign and release. Phew.

Louis Vuitton Resort 2012

Ralph Lauren AW12

Prada AW11

Before I go making sweeping comments about The Great Gatsby film, which I saw at the weekend, I should probably confess that I've never managed to read the whole book all the way through. I've reached about 2/3 of the way a few times but just found it so boring that I gave up. Seeing the film has made it my Summer's goal to properly finish and lay it to rest. It's also the best way to put paid to any actual desire, if there was any left anyway, to "get Gatsby style".

An original 20s flapper

It might not sound like it, but I love a good flapper dress up. I once had tiered, fringed dress which was not only very 20s, but huge fun to wear. You can shimmy about creating swirls and swishes of fringing around you. Don't do this on a bus though. I did and rather embarrassingly hooked myself on to an unsuspecting elder gentleman from whom I then had to disentangle myself. Fun, fun, fun. The thing about The Great Gatsby though, is that it isn't all great. The film and, from what I can gather, the book both leave a bit of a sour taste for diamonds, champagne, silk, fur and other lovely luxuries. Luhrmann doesn't stress the point but anyone with half a brain cell feels a bit grossed out by the end of the film at those excess things being ultimately associated with a quite horrible situation. If the film had ended an hour or so earlier than it actually does, then it would simply be a fun romp full of flowers, flappers, parties and pretty dresses. But it doesn't. I won't spoil it but those of you who know the story will see where I'm coming from.

Obviously, in the actual 1920s I'm sure there were lots of lovely, kind people who could also afford to charleston with feathers and jewels in their hair. History remembers them too. But for the moment, "Getting Gatsby Style!" feels not only old hat, but a bit awkward.

HAPPY 140th BIRTHDAY LEVI'S 501S

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Levis (via creativereview.co.uk)

The best kind of fashion is the sort which impacts people not just because it looks nice but because it genuinely makes their lives better. That might sound like a high and mighty statement but just try shuffling about in your seat, breathing out, walking more than 50m in comfort or even going to the loo. I'd be happy to bet that all of those things are much easier to do now than they were 200 years ago, thanks to brilliant innovations in fabric and design as well as social progress.

Sorry, that doesn't sound very sexy does it? But actually it is, especially in the hands of Levi's 501 jeans which are celebrating their 140th birthday today. And don't they look good on it? In the video which Levi's has made to mark the anniversary, 501s are branded "the Uniform of Progress". When you see them next to images of civil rights campaigners, bridge builders and Gay Rights protesters that certainly makes sense. As a side thought, funny that the birthday should fall on a day when everyone is getting up in arms about gay marriage. A good omen for the right result.

But I wonder if Levis somehow magically engineered the recent turnaround in the 501's trend fortunes? Because, somehow, for umpteenth time in 140 years 501s (and the gazillions of denim incarnations which descend from them) are what we all want to wear right now. Good old blue jeans, not too loose and definitely not too skinny-jean-tight. And we're (probably) not even cowboys, farmers or miners. Clever, that.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: MAY 13th- 17th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

A survey this week claimed that 99.3%* of people felt "significantly cheered up" if they read the fashion news on a grey Friday and/or weekend. With those kind of stats, you'd be mad not to read on.

*This figure and survey is entirely made-up but we suspect this might be the case.

In the tug of war between high fashion and high street, this has been a major week as Mark and Spencer and Versus vied for the attention of fashion keenos.

VERSUS X JW ANDERSON (via style.com)

Aren't the Versus transfers utterly brilliant? JW ANDERSON X VERSUS
(via style.com)

Firstly, in New York Donatella Versace and JW Anderson came together for the major re-launch of Versace's sister label Versus, for which JW Anderson has designed a capsule collection. In an innovative move, Donatella has repositioned Versus as an exciting brand for fashion-mad millenials. The JW Anderson collection will be available exclusively online in a few days and collections will be launched away from the traditional settings and timings of fashion weeks. Angel Haze and Grimes performed at the event Lexington Avenue Armory, making it a quite the fashion and music bonanza. I loved watching/ listening to the video below, J-Dubz and Donatella in conversation.

Backstage at Versus via JW Anderson's Instagram

Stella Tennant on JW Anderson's Instagram

Meanwhile back in London, Marks and Spencer's share price rose 3% and this happened...

EDITD ‏@EDITD16 May

Following the press launch of @marksandspencer's #AW13 collection yesterday, not only has chat increased 272%, but it is 81%+! Kudos M&S.

Why? Because Belinda Earl unveiled her new plan for the ailing fashion side of M&S. The business has pinned its hopes on Earl, formerly of Debenhams and Jaeger, to rescue it from an eighth consecutive quarter of falling profits. Britain's most-respected fashion editors seem to have varying views on how exactly Earl has executed the turnaround...

Jess Cartner- Morley and Sarah Butler in The Guardian

"The bold fashion message on which Belinda Earl is pinning her hopes of turning around the fortunes of Britain's biggest clothing retailer is about quality, not trend."

Laura Craik in The Times

"That M&S has done one too says everything you need to know about its new strategy. M&S is paying heed to the catwalk again. M&S is doing just what H&M, Zara and Topshop do. M&S is back in the game."

The very Celine/ Carven coat, M&S AW13

The very Prada coat M&S AW13

There are certainly plenty of pieces which rival Zara when it comes to "inspired" by the catwalk. A fur trimmed coat, for example, is a dead ringer for Prada's and a pinstripe one with turned-up collar looks like it might have been designed as a result of Stella McCartney's AW13 show. I showed my Mum the new look book. She, I would imagine, is exactly the kind of customer who could be lured back to M&S- she loved it for years but has more recently migrated to Whistles, Cos and whatever's in John Lewis. She said that she liked "some pieces but I'm not sure who they're targeting". The very Dolce and Gabbana lace red party dress is  is "lovely" she said, "but my friends and I could never wear that now, it's so short". Luckily, the sound of better quality and well-edited ranges was music to her ears. Personally, I would certainly consider making a coat purchase. 

My Mum's favourite dress, she wants this. 

David Beckham announced this week that he's retiring from football. From the reactions of some, you'd think that we're never going to see him again. However, it does seem an appropriate moment to pause and remember the various incarnations of "hairstyle" which Becks has paraded on the pitch. I like AskMen's edit. 

It's been the best of times...

And the worst of times...

Beckham corn rows. Errr. (via askmen.com)

More news in brief...

John Galliano may or may not be preparing to do a tell-all TV interview

Tamara Mellon has been using Twitter to suggest that she may be working on a new venture.

Tamara tries it on (via twitter.com/tamaramellon)

Greg Karber is encouraging us to donate Abercrombie and Fitch clothes to the homeless after an executive said that their clothes weren't for "poor people". Watch the video...



Terry Richardson is responsible for the new Valentino accessories campaign, which stars his hands.

Cara Delevingne has had another t-shirt made in her honour. This time she stars on it. Naked. All for Marc Jacobs and skin cancer, who wouldn't?

The UK luxury market will double in the coming five years, according to new research.

Numerous fashion retailers have signed up to a new deal to help prevent further tragedies like last month's Bangladesh factory collapse. Arcadia have now signed after they missed the initial deadline.

Finally in Cannes, aside from some major jewellery burglary, there has been lots of pretty great red carpet dressing. Obviously, for a full run-down you should head over to the Red Carpet Fashion Awards. However, we'll leave you with some lovely actresses in lovely Dior (just don't mention Julianne's toes). Happy Weekend!

Julianne Moore (via perezhilton.com)

Carey Mulligan (via juicy.tuxboard.com)

Nicole Kidman (via tomandlorenzo.com)

Zhang Ziyi (via fashionbombdaily.com)

THE HAT FOR NOW: A TURBAN

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

We're backing the turban as the headwear of the Summer. Ok, so they might not be so street as a Rihanna-favourite cap nor so easy as a straw panama but, damn, are they chic. A turban is the kind of hat which works on the beach but also on a rainy Saturday night when you're going out clubbing and can't be bothered to do your hair. Basically, they're fabulous.

Chloe Sevigny in turban and Proenza Schouler
at the Met Ball (image via glamour magazine.co.uk)

What has prompted us to think about turbans now? If any of you have visited & Other Stories' London store, then you will probably have seen how they have a bikini and turban matching set by Abigail Lorick. They have had it displayed for some time on the table you pass as you go up the stairs in the London store, well they did at least until I went in a couple of weeks ago. I've seen it so many times (do I sound obsessed?) that it has planted a seed for how I'd like to look when I finally make it to the beach in July. Sort of like someone out of a Slim Aarons photograph, please. Chloe Sevigny livened up her Proenza Schouler Met Ball dress with a black turban which took it from perfectly nice (though very un-punk) to something really rather Gloria Swanson-like. Funnily enough, Sevigny's mate Marc Jacobs cited Swanson as an inspiration for his decadently glamourous Autumn/Winter collection. All Sevigny needed was a stonking huge diamond brooch at the front of her turban to look proper 30s socialite.

Camilla Batmanghelidjh in one of her fantastic turbans (image via royalacademy.org)

Some of the most originally stylish well-known women in the world are keen proponents of the turban. Sheikha Mozah, a wife of the Emir of Qatar, has regularly appeared at state occasions across the world in turbans made to match her choice of outfit, usually a sleek column in piercingly bright purple or understated grey or navy. She brings a fresh slant to Islam's modest dress codes. Kids Company founder Camilla Batmanghelidjh co-ordinates her rainbow coloured turbans with  her multicoloured robes and scarves to dazzling effect. She always looks like she might be on her way to some wild celebratory festival. These two women are proof of the turban's brilliance; Sheikha Mozah is about elegance while Batmanghelidjh is all colour and fun, but neither would look right to us now without their respective takes on turbans. Proof that you can make the humble head wrap completely your own.

Sheikha Mozah (nourphoria-journal.blogspot.com)

A TUMBLE OF TURBANS

Juergen Teller for Celine with Daria Werbowy

Michelle Harper via nymag/thecut

Turbans in Vogue 

The coolest way to wear a turban now via thesartorialist.com

Vogue, 1965

THREE GREAT TURBANS TO BUY:

ASOS, £12

Eugenia Kim at Net-a-Porter, £250

Turban hat, £45, & Other Stories

THREE GREAT FASHION THINGS TO DO THIS WEEK

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

It's been a little while now since I steered you in the direction of some fun fashion things to do. By chance, three things which I think are quite great are happening over the next few days so today seems like a good day to share them so you can plan your weekend around these highly worthwhile fashion activities. In no particular order...

1. JW ANDERSON SAMPLE SALE

Cannily, this sale falls just two days after JW Anderson unveils his collaboration with Versus in New York so it's likely we'll all be feeling in the mood to purchase a little piece of JW geniusness.

2. THE HACKNEY SHOP

I do love a designer collective getting together to pop-up sell their wares. This time, Holly Fulton, Atalanta Weller (whose shoes I love), Noel Stewart and James Long all have great stuff for sale at reduced prices. Go!

3. WE'RE NOT HERE TO SELL CLOTHES at ICA

Iain R Webb has written a book about 80s fashion magazine Blitz, which he once edited. To celebrate the book's publication, the ICA are holding a one-weekend only exhibition of films and other bits and bobs related to the book and the magazine which it discusses. There are also a few great sounding talks and screenings going on so do check out the schedule.

THE WEEK IN FASHION: MAY 6th-10th

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

I'm afraid the week in fashion is a little brief this week. Nevertheless, read the headlines, click through and in a hop, skip and jump around the internet you'll be sorted on the week's fashion happenings. Happy Weekend!

Yasmin Sewell is opening a pop-up shop next week and Sarah Mower interviewed her for American Vogue

More sad news for the Missoni family this week, as patriarch Ottavio passes away peacefully at the grand old age of 92.

Lily McMenamy, daughter of Kristen, has landed her first cover, on i-D magazine.

Lily McMenamy covers i-D (image via telegraph.co.uk)

The terrible stream of news from the Bangladesh factory disaster might be making us question the origin of our clothes more.

Somerset House is celebrating the incredible fashion collection accumulated by Isabella Blow with an exhibition in November.

Chanel kicked off the Resort season yesterday with a show in Singapore. Early trends seem to be: cricket, monochrome and Edwardian silhouettes.

Chanel does cricket (style.com)

Chanel Cruise (style.com)

Suzy Menkes has spoken out on several interesting fashion buzz topics this week. In an interview with Fern Mallis she spoke, among many other things, about how she would support John Galliano's return to work and how she never meant to offend bloggers in that Circus of Fashion article. Menkes also reviewed the Met's punk exhibition and wasn't so into it.

Hedi Slimane will be designing costumes for Keith Richards, totally on brand. Furthermore, the collection will be on sale, entitled "Saint Laurent Stage Wear by Hedi Slimane".

Suri Cruise might be designing her own range, and get paid £1.5 million for it. That's all.