Friday, 19 March 2010

MANOLO BLAHNIK AT LARGE IN LIBERTY!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

I wanted a shot of Manolo and his niece Kristina, but the great man insisted I join the photo. Who was I to say no?
Photograph by Jenny Dyson

A fun morning for a Friday. After a visit to Spanish designer Emilio de la Morena to learn more about him and his work, (will post later) I popped along to Liberty to see Manolo Blahnik who was presiding over The Heritage Suite of the building with his Autumn/Winter range. Normally we would view his new collections at his store on Old Church Street. Today we were invited to Liberty.

What was going on?

"There is a reason we are here", confided a wonderfully chic, aristocratically tall young woman who turned out to be Kristina Blahnik, the daughter of Manolo's sister Evangeline. Another Blahnik! Who knew? This can only be a fabulous thing, as anyone who knows Manolo can testify.

Turns out Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye the charming CEO of Liberty came up to Manolo at Claridges last October to pay homage to the great shoe designer and they ended up talking shop. After a pot of English tea, it was decided - Manolo Blahnik was to open a pop-up shop in Liberty during London Fashion Week this coming September. Next thing Ed Burstell, the fashion director of Liberty got involved, and before anyone knew it Manolo Blahnik's pop-up shop was staying not a week as initially planned, but for a three and a half month run until Christmas!

Cue an explosion of creativity from Mr Blahnik who is only just recovering from a fall in snow and ice outside his Chelsea store in December. Manolo has (so far) designed three new Liberty prints. He has, he tells me, long been a fan of the Liberty print, they have been used in many a shoe interior. Manolo is also creating special products for the store, and his new collection includes several exclusive colourways, styles and fabrications that will be available only at Liberty. I have never seen Ed Burstell so excited about a collaboration. He was hopping from foot to foot with excitement when he came to view the range.

Ed Burstell with one of his favourite Manolo exclusives. "This is a shoe with two looks," said Kristina Blahnik "it's an elegant high heel and a fashion high heel." The extra piece is a Blahnik version of the shin protection worn by Polo players.

"There will be scarves, cushions, hats, notebooks, Christmas cards, shoes..." says Ed.
"I'm in trauma!" said Manolo to that, waving his hand (the one with the broken middle-finger) around in a mock one-fingered salute. "I am such an obsessive perfectionist. I will be sick with neuroses by September!"

Clearly, Manolo is loving EVERY minute of this. It shows in the collection too, which I was shown through by Kristina Blahnik, who is an architect; "I still have my own practise," she says, "however my focus is now to work with my Uncle. Structure and proportion is my thing.  Liberty is amazing again too, no?" I agree.

At this point Manolo spots a smidge of fluff on the Afghani rug and instructs someone/anyone to "get rid of it!" Luckily, the offending fluff is swiftly removed and everyone present finds this funny. So now onto my high-points of the new collection.

Most important to note is the new last. Manolo has crated a new shoe/heel shape. It is beautiful.


 
Sorry for the quality! The new curvy last is shown in  full angular explosion in Manolo's illustration in the background, but these are the real life shoes created using pleated suede in place of elastic.
The "Yeti" group. First created by Manolo for Marni a decade ago, and back by popular demand. On the right is the "Isidora" with a 5cm kitten heel. In the centre the "Tasava" 10cm high heel. In black on the left is the flat "Turisa" boot. Put them with what Karl did for Chanel, and we've nearly got a trend.  
Manolo can do elegant fashiony kitten heels better than anyone. 
 Must learn my camera settings more thoroughly. The building across the road is in focus, not the shoe. *mortified*
 


The Manolo take on Timberlands above this shot. This shot, the "Carrie" flats worn by SJP's Carrie when she married Big in SATC. I love them; they would make any girl feel like a princess.  Also the high heel versions behind. Check out the illustration of the pinks! Also the 1940s model Dovima (see the postcard photograph of her mid-shot) is the inspiration for this group of shoes.  

"I designed all this with fantasy in my mind," said Manolo. "You've got to keep the poetry alive. I don't want to lose the poetry."


Bad photography by FEAL.

Thursday, 18 March 2010

HAS NET-A-PORTER MET ITS MATCH?

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

There's a new e-tailer on the block, and this one might just be good enough to rival net-a-porter...

Well actually mytheresa.com isn't exactly new, having launched in 2006 as the online arm of the German bricks and mortar store, and while we have been journalistically aware of it, we haven't really given it much thought as it served mainland Europe direct, not the UK.  But, it's fair to say you probably haven't heard of it before. Whilst our European cousins have been buying from the website's selection of 120 high-end designers for years, this is the first time the company is directly targeting the UK market.
Well not for much longer. Mytheresa.com is known for its designer exclusives, and pre-fall sees the arrival of exclusive pieces from Burberry Prorsum, Proenza Schouler and Erdem to name a few. FEAL has managed to get hold of this never before seen sketch from the latter (you know how I love fashion illustration).


'For the Pre-fall collection with mytheresa.com I wanted everything to feel bright and dynamic, and also very special for their customer' - Erdem

The pre-fall capsule collections go online in June. Until then you can click through to shop these hot SS10 offerings:

Blazer by Richard Nicoll (£803), Trousers by Stella McCartney (£415), Necklace by Dries Van Noten (£768)

Dress by Christopher Kane (£1517)

 Dress and necklace by Lanvin (coming soon), boots by ACNE (£348)

FEELING THE NOWNESS OF LIFE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large


Thanks to the fashion junior who has had hours of fun/research surfing the web while I toiled in Paris, the website NOWNESS is on my radar. It has just been added to the blogroll. I clicked on it this morning to manifest a visual break from the catwalk collections I have been viewing for days on end at Catwalking and Style. And to reinforce the fact I have FINISHED my edit of the AW10 collections - my homework after the shows are over. On NOWNESS I saw this photograph of the Dubai skyline by Iwan Baan and it made me gasp and feel a sense of wonder and awe at the possibilities of life and work and dreams. Wanted to share that with y'all. Have a great day.

 We found this interview with Kamel Ouadi from NOWNESS on Businessoffashion.com (a permanent fixture on our Google Readers) published just before its launch. His eloquent explanation tells you all you need to know about the site of the moment:

'NOWNESS will inspire and turn you on to the latest developments on fashion and culture in a highly curated and thoughtful way. NOWNESS is about carrying a moment in time with you. It sums up a certain feeling when you get a moment of inspiration that lives in your imagination during the day.'

'This site will be about the art of living and involve luxury well beyond product categories. It will inform and inspire. It will bring excitement to the everyday. And, it will feature only exclusive content — a key factor distinguishing it from other luxury websites. It will be an inspirational and experiential site.'

'The site is about inspiring people. It’s also about personalisation of luxury inspiration. A “Love/Don’t Love” button allows users to interact with the content. The impulse to love will drive recommended content to the user, the impulse to love will also tell us how people are responding to the experience.'

'The site is dedicated to collaborating with the world’s foremost designers, creatives and thinkers in the luxury industry. Visitors can enjoy featured work by leading artists such as Wong Kar-Wai, Patti Smith, Lucien Freud, Francesco Vezzoli, Rodarte, Raf Simons, John Galliano for Dior, and Nick Cave.' 

Wednesday, 17 March 2010

FASHION JUNIOR'S TOP SHOWS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

On Monday the Fashion Editor at Large asked me to post my five favourite shows from Paris and my five favourite shows from AW10 as a whole. It's taken me until now to make up my mind! It wasn't an especially cohesive season - a lot is changing in fashion and it's given us all food for thought.

Note: I didn't want to repeat what we've already covered on the blog so I have excluded the obvious - Pilotto, Burberry, Celine. I also didn't want the two lists to overlap, so nothing from Paris is on my favourites list. Maybe now it's clear why this took almost three days to compile!

BEST OF PARIS

(From top left)
1) Alexander McQueen's beautiful interpretation of the Dark Ages
2) Alber Elbaz's ladylike outerwear at Lanvin
3) Stella McCartney's slick minimalism
4) Richard Nicoll's matchy-matchy extremism at Cerruti
5) Roland Mouret's draping and experimental hoods

BEST OF AW10


(From top left)
1) Derek Lam's urban cowgirls
2) Christopher Kane shows us lux youth Versace style at Versus
3) Reed Krakoff's minimal utility with plenty of slouch
4) Massimiliano Giornetti's manish tailoring at Salvatore Ferragamo
5) Belle Sauvage gives us print's last hurrah

Which were your favourites?

Tuesday, 16 March 2010

TREKSTOCK LOVES DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS

Posted by Fashion Junior at Lrage

Ever heard of Trekstock?


Trekstock is a cancer charity that was set up in 2006 by Sophie Epstone, who wanted to find inspiring ways to get people involved:

'Trekstock has a great way of engaging with young people by channeling our efforts into fundraising through music and fashion. Ours is a warm and inviting brand, conveying a positive message that celebrities all over the world have been proud to support over the last four years'.

Her efforts have paid off, as Trekstock is having its official launch at Downing Street tomorrow evening (!) and the charity's latest project Trekstock Loves - a collaborative collection designed by House of Holland, Ksubi, James Long, LPBG, MariaFrancescaPepe, PPQ, and Richard Nicoll - goes on sale at Browns Focus today. All profits go to Cancer Research UK and support its work on cancers that affect children and teenagers.
 
Trekstock loves LPB, £240

Trekstock Loves House of Holland, £65

Henry Holland just tweeted with pride: ' http://twitpic.com/18y44x - Look at my nipple tee!! (Browns focus x TRECKSTOCK windows) get involved Londoners'.

You heard the man, what are you waiting for?...

To find out more visit Trekstock or Cancer Resrach UK.

Monday, 15 March 2010

DOES VANITY KILL?

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Don't worry, my narcissism will stop today, following this. However, the fashion junior at large urged me to show you the beauty shoot I appeared in within the pages of this weeks British Grazia. Sadly, the issue goes off-sale today in time for the new issue tomorrow. However my mother assures me all the aunties got their copy, so that's OK then.

Doing this shoot was interesting. I was pleased with the results. Part of me (the part that has had a few glasses of wine on a Thursday night in Shoreditch House) wishes I was an 20 year old supermodel.

WHEN I MET MY MIRROR AT GIVENCHY

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Vanessa Coyle mirroring Fashion Editor at Large

It is not often that I will post photographs of myself on this blog but I was going through my shots from Paris and there was this crazy one of me and my old friend Vanessa Coyle of Harpers Bazaar. It was taken straight after the Givenchy show, and Vanessa and I were thinking along the same lines with our look of the day, don't you think?  The jacket is - surprise, surprise! - by Celine.

Celine was by far the most popular label amongst fashion editors in Paris, and spotting it became something of a sport for myself and yet another British journalist who has this jacket, Fran Burns from Love magazine. It is unfortunate that Frannie wasn't wearing her jacket at the Givenchy show - that would have been a great picture!

That wasn't the end of the Celine-athon. This evening Sarah Mower and myself attended the press event for the Central Saint Martin's MA graduate show. Sarah was wearing the very beautiful Celine coat in camel; she also has it in black. The coat has a very particular look which Ms Philo described to Alice Rawsthorn for the New York Times last month: “It’s cut very specifically like a double-breasted coat, but worn open like a single-breasted coat,” she explains. “The cut of the shoulder and sleeves is twisted at the front, so you get this feeling that it’s sitting on your shoulders.” 

Like me, Sarah is not alone amongst her colleagues in ownership of the same item. She tells me Brana Wolf, [Harpers Bazaar USA], Aliona Doletskaya [editor-in-chief Russian Vogue] and Alex White [W Magazine] and Phoebe Philo regularly wear theirs.   
Sarah Mower looking fabulous in one of her TWO!! Celine coats. She also has it in black.  

Over the course of Paris Fashion Week, Fran Burns said she counted 17 individual women wearing the below jacket - both this length and the shorter waist-length version. I'm torn between being glad I don't have one, to jealous of those who do.
I buy my Celine from Matches. www.matchesfashion.co.uk

On another note the caramel and nude pink colour vibe ushered in this season by labels such as Celine, Stella and Chloe - to my eyes the three most influential labels for AW10 - have inspired the beginnings of my proper Spring wardrobe, which I will explore and share through this blog as it happens. Hence why, during my lunch hour from Grazia HQ today I bought this silky nude-coloured shirt from Zara for £49.99. The girl in who served me said they came in-store today. I love it! What do you think? 

  
Excuse the pose, I was camping it up for my friend Angela Buttolph, Grazia's web editor.
Picture credits:
Chris Moore/Catwalking.com
Fashion Editor at Large
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