INSIDE CLEMENTS RIBEIRO'S LFW SHOW

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Printed guipure lace on a Y-back jumpsuit at Clements Ribeiro   

Last night I popped over to Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro's house in Bayswater expecting to see the place in a frenzy of pre-preparation for their show today at 10am. Instead I pulled up with Nic (my calm, un-rufflable Mercedez driver) to see Inacio calmly sipping a cup of tea in his living room, and scanning over the running order for todays show. While his wife Suzanne popped to get me a strong cuppa, their divine five year old daughter Violet popped her head around the door. So far, so homely.

Turns out Clements Ribeiro, who have been going since the 1990's in various incarnations - some big, some small - were looking to their own home for visual fashion inspiration this season. Indeed their house, a London townhouse in charming disarray - bare floorboards, homespun knick knacks, and Suzanne assures me "wallpaper peeling on the upper floors to reveal even older wallpaper underneath" seems fertile ground for the collection hanging in front of us.

Suzanne pointing out home-spun details from the collection including botanical drawings, wallpaper prints and and nick-nacks from their home

Easy silk trousers and a Clements Ribeiro signature sweater

The show was a short but sweet breath of fresh air. With a disembodied version of Mrs Robinson, by Simon & Garfunkel on the speakers, the models with their eccentric hair and vaguely desperate housewifish attitude strolled out in the inimitable Clements Riberio look that sells so well on net-a-porter.com.  

"We're into American sportswear shapes, not sportswear itself," Inacio told me last night, brandishing a pair of elasticated waist silk tapered-leg pants printed, before picking up a matching silk T-shirt, and then a cashmere stripe sweater - their longtime signature item. "Our prints are not about making people into walking works of art. For us prints become texture." 

The way the couple have worked their prints is an artful mash-up of juxtaposed elements, a Victorian paisley wallpaper print say, abutted with toile du jouy, botanical prints then worn with a guipure lace print itself trimmed with real guipure lace. "We've created out prints this season like a patchwork, but made into one print. we want to create an easiness," says Ribeiro. "Its an anxious time. We want this collection to be cool, calm and soothing."  In that case, job done.

If you look closely at the black and white graphic peeking from the back of the model boardin the below picture, you will see the inspiration for this dress.  

My favourite looks from Clements Ribeiro

KEEP WATCHING LFW LIVE! AND JASPER CONRAN

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After Jasper Conran's show, the FashEd commented that his show was quite sporty. His reply? 'It was more Patou than Adidas, darling'. See for yourself in  the video below.

And keep watching live...

CRAIG LAWRENCE SS12 AT LFW: A TUMBLR

Posted by Fashion Editor and Fashion Junior at Large

The FashEd and I hit the Portico Rooms again this afternoon for Craig Lawrence's presentation. He added to a seaside fixation which a number of designers have homed in on this season- Daks was English riviera chic this morning with some cool 50s cinefilms of Brits hitting the beach and old school diving competitions. We know that Mulberry is going to be 70s seaside tomorrow, and that Holly Fulton was inspired by a trip to Margate this summer.

Lawrence's twist was a lot more subtle- the witty documentary style photographs of Martin Parr began his journey to the beach, where he then took sand as a starting point for the colours and textures of his knitwear. "The pastel shades were inspired by the ice cream shades of beach hut," he said post-show.

Craig worked with stylist Katie Shillingford to create his layered up looks. For her part Shillingford told Lawrence to "knit up a storm. I wanted him to make as many piece as possible to build up a rich layering story. What he does is so beautiful. We wanted to concentrate on creating sellable looks so people can create their own looks."

Craig worked with Swarovski to create metallic elements, which Craig said were iinspired by "the crushed shells you see in the sand at the beach."

We are seeing lots of skirts spilt up the front

Amazing shoes by Natacha Marro

Amazing slashed leather bags and sliced iridescent swimming caps by Steven Doherty

Craig's Mum, Pauline.

The FashEd chats to Craig backstage. "Basically I've been in a room for four months working on these techniques. The inspiration was different kind of lace. I usedc

Photos: Fashion Editor and Fashion Junior at Large

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT- ARE THEY REALLY ONES TO WATCH?

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London is indisputably the home of young design talent- this is a city which, through its amazing educational institutions (Central St Martins, London College of Fashion, Royal College of Art etc.) and funding initiatives, nurtures young talent which then goes global- if Giles does end up going to Vuitton as some think may be the case now that he has ended his work with Ungaro (and if Marc goes to Dior- so many ifs!) then he will be the latest in a long line of British designers to be at the helm of major fashion houses.

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout is one of the ways that young designers are being supported. Yesterday I went along to their graduate showcase at Freemason's hall  to see whether these really could be future design stars.I have two favourites who I'll tell you about first. These are not from the main Ones to Watch show which showcased Alice Lee, Phoebe English, Shao Yen and Malene Oddershade Bach.

Manuela Dack

Manuela Dack, a graduate of Middlesex, had some beautiful sheer fabrics with beaded fringing panels. Her colour palette was a very fresh mix of mint green, cream and grey with some orange pops in the beaded bits- the sum of this was extremely wearable, beautifully ladylike pieces so I am not surprised that The Shop at Bluebird, the cool yummy-mummy department store destination on King's Road, has snapped her up. Just as important as the clothes is the personality behind them and when I met Maunela she was charming, switched-on and passionate about her collection. It is useful too for Manuela that her clothes fit the prevailing fashion mood which is chic and feminine and not too OTT.

Manuela Dack

Images from manueladack.com

My other top pick was Masc, the label from Duncan Shaw and Belinda Yick. The duo graduated from Nottingham Trent in 2007. Since then, Duncan has completed the Institut Francais de la Mode's Masters in Fashion Design programme in Paris. They began Masc in 2011 so have some perspective on the realities of the design world compared to those fresh from their courses which seems to me no bad thing at all.

Masc

Belinda was  a wonderful model for their collection which was inspired first of all by the wings of an aeroplane- I think one of my favourite things about fashion is learning where an idea orginates for a designer and how they progress. That industrial shape was in evidence throughout Masc's collection, whether it was a group of wing shapes combined to form a striking, angular skirt shape or a single pleat at the back of a skirt. Just as with Manuela, these guys are switched on and likeable, certainly not on an arty cloud nine. The colours were minimal to say the least, with just black and flesh on offer for the current collection so the focus really is completely upon the structure and silhouette. Their shapes are angular but still uber flattering and right for all kinds of women. I hope some canny buyers snap them up soon.

Images from Masc

Other highlights:

Stephanie Grace Foy

Stephanie Grace Foy SS12 (Styled by Lauren Eva, Model Linnea Landan, Photographer Miss Aniela, asst, Matt Lenard, MUA Rachel O'Donnell)

Yasmin Kianfar

Yasmin Kianfar

 I suppose it's the nature of young designers but it seems to me that there's not THAT much to any of these collections. There are maybe three or four beautiful pieces. So then it's all about the potential which is shown in those few examples. That's quite a lot of pressure. 

Great prints also from Anna Lee, who was inspired by Ophelia and the ocean.

Anna Lee

And from the Ones to Watch show:

Phoebe English-

Phoebe English

This coat from Shao Yen is my top overall piece from the whole exhibition. Beautiful. 

Shao Yen- Fun, playing with textures, versatile but still very elegant.

J W ANDERSON AT LFW A TUMBLR

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Here is what went on backstage between Jonathan Anderson's two salon shows this morning. Lots of activity in a tiny room, but everyone was game with us journalists swarming around with our camera's phones and notebooks. (I need three arms.) There are many themes emerging on Day Two of LFW. The main is handcrafting, and with a distinct Made in Britain flavour. Jonathan went down the road of working with various British manufacturers so he could learn at their knee, so to speak. He is nothing if not an eager beaver to improve his skill base.

Hannah Noble wearing a J. W Anderson collage of Swarovski panels.

Jonathan talking through one of his collage dresses with Bronwyn Cosgrove of Swarovski.

Photos: Fashion Editor at Large

KEEP WATCHING LFW LIVE! AND TODAY'S PICK- MARIA GRACHVOGEL

OUR FAVOURITE SHOW TODAY: MARIA GRACHVOGEL

PREEN AT LFW SS12

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I've just got back from the Preen presentation and am in love. You'll know from my post the other day that Preen was mine (and as sarah Mower told the Fash Ed yesterdays, her) highlight of NYFW so it felt like a real privilege to be able to view the collection up close this morning.

I also spoke to Justin Thornton, designer at Preen alongside Thea Bregazzi. I had seen that the collection was inspired by Virgina Woolf  but I knew that this was no straightforward copy of Virginia's 'look' as that would have involved drab dresses and dull colours. Thornton told me that Woolf's seminal novel Orlando,  which charts the adventures of the epnonymous protagonist as he (then she) lives through a number of times and places (that is a very crude synopsis!) was the central starting point. Ultimately it was the element of reincarnation which the Preen team took as their spin on the Virgina Woolf theme.

Frills and peplums were subtley pretty

Virginia Woolf circa 2012

Lots of great tailoring underpinned this collection - and excuse me, how great is this shade of yellow?

Thus, this collection brings Woolf into SS12 so that this does not look like another rehash of the 20s and 30s which really, with that theme it could so easily have been. Instead it feels precisely of the moment with details which reflect those historical references; the lemon shade which is accented throughout came from a recurring reference to this colour from the botanical writings of the time, the frills at the wrists reflect the fact that Woolf would always have a handkerchief tucked up her sleeve.

Frills for hankies

 The botany theme is also reflected in the digitised prints which were created from an intial scan of a peony. There is also an enlarged lace print which came from a contemporary sample. I also noticed that there were lots of back details in the collection, particularly cut-out shapes or alternate colours and fabrics- my favourite example of this is the white dress with fuschia chiffon pleating on the back.

Bloomsbury print- ladylike but then sexy with a midriff- perfect combination

Stunning back detail

Thornton told me that a collection which is made up of quite simple silhouettes, as this one is, lends itself to transforming the look from front to back. Midriff and back baring feel very modern he commented- a sentiment which many designers are picking up on and so interesting to see the varying interpretations.This is a collection full of favourites... I couldn't choose one piece.


The sequins were originally going to tie in with the graphic element of the digitised print but it was then decided to make them more scattered for a contrasting effect. The work was done by hand in India.

This guipere lace top is cut out at the back, and lined in fluror pink as you can see in the shot above. From prim to modern sexy in one about turn. 

Photos: Fashion Junior at Large