Friday, 21 October 2011

THE WEEK IN FASHION: OCTOBER 17th-21st

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Welcome to another week of  news from the fashion world, brought to you by FEAL. Happy Weekend!

I'm going to start this week's news on a sort of business-y note as I've been a bit perplexed by a lot of the big money news which seems to have emerged over the past few days, despite the doom and gloom of the financial pages. I'm no economic whizz kid but I do find it baffling that while Europe is apparently in deep crisis, spending at the Frieze art fair was brisk and Marc Quinn's statue of Kate Moss in a rather tangled yoga pose was snapped up for a mere £577,250 at a Sotheby's sale; the lucky owner is apparently a private individual from Europe, lucky them!

Marc Quinn's 'Microcosmos' (Image from Vogue.co.uk)
A couple of big fashion houses have posted massive profits this week as well, and not just due to expansion in the East.  This week LVMH and Dior both reported rises of around 15%. Of course, Asia is where the greatest opportunity lies for luxury brands; LVMH saw a 27% increase in the last four months. That said, Europe and the US are not THAT far behind with profits rising by 7% and 18% respectively in those areas. One of the many brands under the LVMH umbrella is Celine, where Phoebe Philo is still being lauded for her game changing collections;  results were said to have been 'remarkable' there, perhaps showing that it is not just a catwalk phenomenon which Philo has masterminded. It's worth highlighting as well that Dior's lack of solid design direction doesn't seem to have done them much harm at all- clearly perfume and leather goods can ride even the most potent of media storms.
Everyone still wants a bit of Celine, according to LVMH results (Image from FashionGoneRogue.com)
The importance of the Asian market is underlined by the expansion which many brands are currently undertaking. The latest is Vivienne Westwood who opened her first Chinese store in Shanghai earlier this week. Dame Viv is in China to take part in lots of activities promoting the opening including being guest of honour at the opening of Shanghai Fashion Week. Never one to be seen and not heard, she's also promoting her concerns about the environment and sustainability by addressing the 'Can China survive the world green economy?' conference.
Dame Vivienne Westwood at the opening of her new Shanghai shop
Enough of the business chat and on to some excellent images by Steven Meisel for W magazine's annual art issue. He has employed the talents of various stars including Linda Evangelista, Karen Elson, Coco Rocha and Joan Rivers to create fake ads for imagined products dreamed up with a little help from the W team. Among them the predicatable next project of Petra Ecclestone and a retro spin on shampoo promotion. I've included some of the images below and somewhere in there is Anna Dello Russo, can you spot her? Hint: You have NEVER seen her quite like this before.

Thursday, 20 October 2011

FASHION JUNIOR IN ISTANBUL #1

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I'm here in a brilliantly sunny, if chilly, Istanbul as a guest of Turkish born, London based designer Bora Aksu to celebrate his collaboration with Armaggan- a store which kind of sums up what Turkey is really about at the moment; the combination of ancient and modern. Armaggan describes itself as 'masterfully combining original contemporary designs with traditional techniques'. I've only been in the city a few hours but I can already sense that it has evolved in a way which complements the magnificent architecture which is everywhere and embraces the routines of coffee, tea and spices, mosque-going and bazaar browsing. I've just returned from lunch at Pandeli restaurant above the city's Spice Bazaar, a foodie feast. I can hear the call to mosque and I can still smell the strong coffee of the bazaar. Tonight, I'm off to the launch of Bora Aksu's collection, much more about that tomorrow. In the meantime, a taster of the Istanbul I've peeked so far...

Through the windows looking onto the Spice Bazaar at Pandeli

Pandeli's famous blue tiles, there since 1955


Bustle of the Spice Bazaar

Wednesday, 19 October 2011

MY NEW FAVOURITE SONG: FRIENDS - I'M HIS GIRL

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Now and again I find myself obsessively re-listening to certain songs, usually because that song resonates with a feeling I can't quite articulate. Thanks to being plugged into 6Music through most of each working day I got to hear I'm His Girl by Friends, a so hipster it hurts group from Brooklyn, about six weeks ago. Until Monday there was no Youtube video to enjoy. Well, ta-da! Now there is, so time to share.




This is so naive and cute, and SO DAMN HIPSTER I love it. It reminds me of me in my early 20s, and also of my favourite young female friends who are out and about living it up generally being young and free.

The lineup: Samantha Urbani (vocals), Lesley Hann (bass, percussion, backing vocals), Nikki Shapiro (guitar, keyboards, percussion), Matthew Molnar (keyboards, percussion, bass), Oliver Duncan (drums).
They have only recently been signed, we've been told to expect an album in 2012. Woop!

HI-TOPPING (or why you will really, really want these sneakers)

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Here at FEAL, we are noticing a change in the tides when it comes to shoes. They're starting to migrate towards being comfortable, wearable and cool, rather than fierce, fetishistic and impossibly uncomfortable. The hi-top trainer with hidden wedge heel is a case in point. Yes I know this is similar in concept to what Tom Cruise wears to disguise his lack of height. Well, we admit it, women want to look taller without wearing heels too. These make our legs look longer, while also making us look like we are wearing flats when we are not. Cool by me. Isabel Marant's fashion badge-of-honour Bekket hi-top wedge sneaker are sold out globally right now, (there are many of us hoping for replenishment). I can't remember a time when I've seen one product so resolutely SOLD OUT. In fact I would go so far as to say the hi-top with hidden wedge is the casual shoe of this moment, and promises to be even hotter for spring 2012...

The Marant Bekkets in Paris  (Image from thisisayes.com)
The Bekket's are more New York gangsta than Parisian as they are super chunky with the wedge pretty much hidden. In Paris I lost count of the number of pairs I spotted, and tbh they've been popular since summer 2010, but now they have gone bonkers.

Isabel Marant Bekket hi-top hidden wedge sneakers. No, you can't have a pair.

The Italian company Ash, quite possibly the original purveyors of the style, have got lots of different variations on their Thelma wedge hi-top and a few of the more summery colourways are reduced at the moment. They have also just launched "Birdy" below, which comes in several colours, and is according to their Marylebone branch, selling our fast online and instore. I'm into the Biba style, which they promise is coming in the next couple of weeks

The "Birdy" by Ash. £189. Just in, and IN STOCK!
The Biba by Ash, coming soon... http://www.ashfootwear.co.uk/

If you are willing to wait, however, Marc by Marc Jacobs have a whole range of said sneakers in its Spring collection.
Marc by Marc Jacobs hi-top wedge for SS12, they will come in many colour combinations

TopShop & co I think you need to get on the job immediately. Surely there are some sneakers just like this in your archive? I'm sure I had a pair when I was 14 from C&A Clockhouse that I wore with candystripe legwarmers...

Tuesday, 18 October 2011

FASHION RANDOMS: I ZIG THEN I ZAG

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

A random post for a random but good day. #Random 1. I bought a handbag! The first luxury handbag I have purchased in over three years. I first saw it on Saturday at Browns, and it kept calling to me. It is by Balenciaga and is a twist on my favourite Lariat bag from the mid-noughties. When I bought the original in 2006, it was the most I had ever spent on a handbag in my life. My new one is called the "Work" bag, and is larger in dimension than the original Lariat but has the same proportions. The deciding factor for me (there was much humming and  hawwing, this is expensive even with my lucky press discount) was that this specimen does not have the blingy glittery gold studs all over them that the Balenciaga bags of the last few years have been emblazoned with. Also it looks modern yet timeless, the requirement for any really good handbag. 

My lovely new Balenciaga from Browns with my stuff in it

#Random 2. I would like to buy this. It was created in a collaboration between Kristin Knox of The Clothes Whisperer blog and Laure Pariente of Americanretro.fr. Though I think I have both items at home and could create my own.





American Retro/Kristin Knox  

#Random 3. I'm liking zig-zags as a trend for next spring. I loved this print seen at the Loewe showroom in Paris. And Carven (one of my favourite collections for next season) was a zig-zag moment too.  

Loewe's Zig-Zags

Carven's Zig-Zags



Monday, 17 October 2011

COVETING COUVERTURE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

I'm not going to pretend that I am in any way 'typical' of the visitors which you might expect to encounter if you visit Couverture and the Garbstore. For one, I get lost between Notting Hill Gate and Ladbroke Grove tube stations but I am also not in possession of a brood of adorable children nor a husband to deposit in the menswear section. However, I wouldn't let any of that put you off paying a visit to the store which is located a stone's throw from The Travel Bookshop which has come to symbolise the heart of the Notting Hill independent shop culture.

Couverture was established by Emily Dyson (daughter of the famous James) back in 1999 and moved from Chelsea to its current location in 2008. The Garbstore is the brainchild of Dyson's husband, Ian Paley, and is a far newer venture which brings a menswear element to Emily's womenswear/ home/ childrenswear concept. I'm told that whole families descend on the three floor space on a Saturday morning and disperse to their respective spaces to hunt out pieces from Emily and Ian's careful edit. Their joint online store launched just six months ago. It must be said though that Emily and Ian work completely separately from one another, with Emily preferring to take her buyer Hayley on sourcing trips around the world. It is by virtue of their complementary tastes that the two businesses sit well together under the same roof.
 When I visited the store, I could see its draw for families after something special but personally, I honed in on the products themselves many of which appealed to me despite my falling into quite a different demographic. Over 50% of labels in the store are UK exclusives and none of them are likely to be found in a big department store nor in great quantities online; this means that you are very unlikely to see anyone with the same item elsewhere; unless you live in Notting Hill and invite your neighbour over I suppose, although I'm sure the excellent girls in the shop would ensure that never happened!
Rings by Andy Lifschutz
Given that Emily and Hayley literally scour the world for their selection, it is natural that each brand stocked seems to have that precious 'story' which is so appealing to buy into. One of the best examples is Andy Lifschutz whose jewellery is stocked exclusively in the UK by Couverture. Andy lives in Arkansas in the US and finds pieces of 'raw' quartz which he then transforms from rocks to jagged gems and then, using reclaimed metals, into pieces which range from dramatic to delicate. For jewellery made in such an organic way the prices are rather impressive, starting at £199. We like.
 I'm not one to get excited about pants and bras but I was really drawn to the VPL line (brilliant name, no?) which is described as 'anti-underwear'; Victoria's Secret this is not. I could almost see these as bikinis, or for the likes of Rihanna, actual outfits. This brand is already well-known in the US where it is worn by the likes of Gwen Stefani and Tilda Swinton, although it was started by British born Victoria Bartlett. I've been having a look at Bartlett's recent New York show and feel like her sporty aesthetic might have a moment next Summer.
Prices start at £70

VPL SS12- The models in this show look super fit and athletic, not a flimsy little lady in sight.
A Detacher AW11
 Mona Kowalska's A Detacher is exactly the kind of label which keeps Couverture's core customer coming back, it has just enough of a trend element to look completely modern but the pieces themselves are hard to pinpoint and not widely available or recognised. The coat above (or one very similar) in navy was top of my 'what I would buy' list when I visited but the printed dropped waist tea dresses were also taking pride of place among the sedate knitwear which dominated the display.
A Detacher AW11- prices from £80-£200
Lastly, the store is currently dotted with these plates from 'Made in Scandinavia'- although they prove that you don't always have to go far afield to source beautiful products, these are made in London, not far from the store by a collective of artists from, er, Scandinavia. Cute. I should also add that that although most items are pretty pricey there are also lots of little bits and bobs which won't break the bank and mean you can bring a piece of Couverture home with you. Also, although the website has a great selection there are lots of different things to be found in-store so try to pop in!


Plates are £35 each
Couverture and The Garbstore is at 188, Kensington Park Road. Call 020 7229 2178
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