THE WEEK IN FASHION: 14th-18th NOVEMBER

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

It's a case of fashion mirroring life this week as we bring you news of births and deaths and, er, rebirths. It's been pretty dramatic actually.

Tom Ford SS12

American Vogue has just released the very first pictures of Tom Ford's SS12 collection (photographed by the multitalented Mr Ford himself). The former Gucci designer had decreed that the designs he showcased in a highly exclusive catwalk show should not be seen until now to avoid people becoming bored of them before they were available to buy. However, he suffered something of a backlash when fashion editors including The Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley and Le Figaro's Virginie Mouzat wrote negative reviews not only of the clothes but also of that approach to showing. Sarah Mower's interview with Ford, which is posted beneath the pictures, reveals that Ford will revert to intimate showroom presentations for his next collection, emphasising the necessity to explain each look in detail. Furthermore, Ford claims that he designs in response to what his customers want, hence all the flounced mini dresses. Now that we can see for ourselves, what are your thoughst?

Tom Ford SS12

Tom Ford SS12 (All images from American Vogue)

Evelyn, her husband Leonard and Estée (from WWD)

On Sunday, the sad news arrived that Evelyn Lauder, daughter in law of Estée, had died at the age of 75 from Ovarian Cancer, having suffered Breast Cancer in the past. Evelyn not only played an instrumental role in growing Estée Lauder from a small family business into one of the world's biggest beauty companies but she also made a profound contribution to raising awareness and funds for Breast Cancer Research. In 1989, she was diagnosed with the disease and went on to spearhead the Pink Ribbon campaign which has now become a widely recognised symbol of support. The fact that Evelyn's childhood was marred by her family's escape from Nazi-occupied Europe only makes her lifetime achievements more incredible. The New York Times' obituary has some fascinating insights into Evelyn's life.

The Lauder family. Evelyn is seated, hugged by her son. Estée is in the white hat (from WWD)

In happier news, it's time to congratulate Julia Restoin Roitfeld, daughter of Carine, who's expecting her first baby. Somehow we can't imagine Carine sitting down to knit booties or change a nappy quite yet but I think we can safely say that this could be the best dressed grandchild on the planet once it arrives in May. A day out with Grandma Roitfeld could involve anything from sitting FROW at fashion week to crawling around on a Chanel shoot... Lucky babes!

Julia with boyfriend and baby daddy, Robert Konjic (image from thevoguediaries.com)

Versace Couture SS09 (images from audreysworld.blogspot.com)

 This week has, let's admit it, been rather dominated by the launch of Versace's collection for H&M. Just a couple of days before the brand went high street, it was announced that they would be swinging right back the other way in January with the re-introduction of a couture show. It's set to take place on January 23rd, the first day of the couture week. WWD points out that Versace has still been doing couture during its seven year absence from the schedule, opting to keep to more discreet appointments. I guess now that the world is buzzing with Versace frenzy, it's a good time to capitalise on keeping up the momentum. I can't imagine we'll see the queues we saw yesterday though!

Versace Couture SS09

Marc Jacobs' SS12 London press day had to be cancelled yesterday after the collection was stolen during its journey from Paris. Some have pointed the finger at counterfeiters who might be out to copy the collection.  Or could it be a sneaky ploy by Dior HQ to harangue Jacobs into becoming their Head Designer? Whoever the culprits are, one thing's for sure- they will be easily identified by their translucent flapper dresses and general 'thirties meets future' vibe. No word of a reward for information as yet...

Missing: Have you seen this Marc Jacobs SS12? (Image from www.lloyd-evans.com)

WHO'S BUYING VERSACE FOR H&M?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

The amount of hype surrounding Versace's collaboration with H&M has been nothing short of immense. There was the the elaborate launch party in New York last week, posters all over the place and a commercial featuring Donatella herself which has been showing during prime time slots like The X-Factor. The point of all this was quite blatantly to make sure that there would be queues of people lined up this morning to get their hands on a little bit of high street Donatella. The Queue has become a phenomenon of the H&M collaboration story, but The Queue is not a singular thing- it is made up of individuals who all have their own reasons for being a part of it. This morning I went along to the Oxford Circus store, just down the road from the Regent Street opening where Donatella and Lady Gaga made appearances. Despite the lack of celebrity, The Queue still stretched right around the block. I was really interested to find out who was in The Queue and why... I expected a variety of reasons but was completely fascinated by the broad appeal which this collaboration seems to have. Readers, meet The Queue...

1. Hikaru, 24, Works at CyberDog in Camden

Hikaru's J.W Anderson-esque boots are from Japan

'I've been here since 8 this morning. I think the clothes are gorgeous- this will be my first piece of Versace, I love that they're making it accessible. I also came and bought the Lanvin collaboration last year, but I've never queued like this before. I want to buy the black and white zig-zag t-shirt. I look really bad today but I had to get up early to come here, I even dragged my friend along'

2. Joan, 60, Local Authority Commissioner.

'I've come to buy Christmas presents for my daughter and my son's girlfriend- they're both 23/24 but it's a bit OTT for me so I won't be getting anything for myself! My son's girlfriend is at Manchester University and students get to know about these things. I don't know much about Versace, I know the emblem. I didn't get here too early, about 8.40, but my son is up ahead of me in the queue. He's going to buy something for himself. His style is usually quite retro and all this is a bit glittery for him but I think he's going to get a shirt. We're getting the leggings and some jewellery for the girls. I've taken the day off work especially to come!'

Luis in the bomber he hadn't planned to buy

I found Joan with her son, Luis, a bit later. He'd already been allowed in for the menswear and had got himself the bomber jacket 'because everyone was going for it- it was such a cattle rush'. He was waiting to go in again with his Mum to get their hands on the womenswear.

4. Akosua, 21, Freelance Photographer and Brenda, 19, a Footwear Student at Cordwainers.

Akosua (left) and Brenda

 Akosua: 'I thought the commercial was amazing- that completely drew me here. It made me want to get my hands on MY designer piece- I really want the leggings and the bomber jacket. I find most collaborations rubbish- they look so high street but to me this one seems outside the box. It looks like authentic Versace. I know that dress that Liz Hurley wore and the one Jennifer Lopez wore- they're what you think of when you think of Versace and this collection actually looks like that. I really didn't like the Lanvin collaboration'

Brenda: 'I want the leggings and the bomber too. I won't be buying the boots- I've got such high standards with shoes I don't think they'd be right but I'm just excited to be here. We got up at 5 but had loads of stress so didn't get here til 8'

5. Ardy, 38, Head of Jewellery at Phillips Auction House

Former model Ardy

'This is like going back to my roots in the 80s. I was a model in Paris and Versace was everywhere so this is really nostalgic for me. This collection looks really fun but it's also reasonable. I think it's going to be more collectible than your average Versace as well. I used to go to Miami a lot and I would see Gianni around a lot so this is really like going back to my youth and the Versace brand was a big part of that. I think everyone's done so well sleeping out, I wouldn't have done that.'

6. Cornelia, 23, Merchandising student at London College of Fashion

'I wanted to experience the H&M queue. I've lived all over the world in Australia, Thailand, South Africa and have never been anywhere where there's an H&M when these things happen. I'm not mad about the clothes- they're not really my style, it's more about seeing it all. I'm going to get the scarf because then I have something and it'll be a wardrobe staple but I think the clothes will date really quickly. I know a bit about Versace, about Gianni being shot. I think this collection is showing what the brand is all about. My friend is in Switzerland trying to buy it online and it keeps crashing apparently'

7. Tobi, 21, English student at Goldsmiths

 'I heard about this about a month ago and I could see it was like the Classic Versace. I'm really into 90s hip- hop and this has all those classic emblems. I'm really here for the style. I didn't know that much about Versace but I've been learning more recently- it's such a powerhouse. All the clothes are just like what everyone in the hip hop and urban community wears. It reminds me of Biggy Smalls (The Notorious B.I.G) and recently people like Lady Gaga and Kanye West have been bringing it all back. I never usually get up before noon so this is a big thing for me- nobody thought I could do it!'

8. Rhandes, 25, Runs a Fashion Marketing business

 'I just wanted to come along and check it out and take some pictures. I will be buying a few pieces too- I really want the pink dress with stars on. I'm going to buy my husband some shirts too. He's at home sick in bed and he keeps calling me every five minutes to see if I'm in yet. I think Versace clothes are so original and vibrant and vivid. I don't know loads about the brand's history but I'm interested in art and I can see how they use that. My favourite designers are Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford which I guess are a bit different. I tried to queue for the Cavalli collection but that was just too manic'

9. Jay, 20, Business Management Student

 'I love all the H&M collaborations. I completely loved the Lanvin collection. It's not so much about the designer for but the fact that it's in H&M so it's a good price. I have some Prada clothes but I mostly just think of myself as a normal girl who likes to be on trend. I know that if I buy some dresses from the Versace collection then I'll be trendy. I really trust H&M'

10. Leonardo, 23, Italian and Spanish student and Eva, 30, Fashion Design student

Leonardo: 'I always, always come when a new H&M collaboration launches. I was here for Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel... alll of them! I just love fashion and this makes it so accessible. I'm definitely here to buy the name. We've been here since 11 last night. I'd been on the Vogue website and planned everything I wanted to buy- I made a list. I got everything I wanted apart from the boxers so we're off to another store now to find those. My favourite designers are McQueen, Galliano and Marc Jacobs- I just love fashion'

Leonardo was wearing his Lanvin t-shirt (along with McQueen scarf and Vuitton bag)

 Eva: 'I checked the clothes and the fabrics are nasty, so synthetic. But I don't mind that . We buy this high street crap all the time but it's special if it has a designer name on it- the label! I usually despise loud prints but Versace has a way of making me love them'

WHAT THEY'RE BUYING:

Everything seems to be sold out now on the H & M site, but as some commenters have said, there's plenty available at inflated prices on ebay. Here's what everyone I spoke to wanted to buy (or had bought)...

Furry waistcoat £39.99

Bomber £69.99

Palm print leggings  £24.99

Pink dress £129.99

Earrings £19.99

From the men's collection...

Black/ White optical illusion jumper £49.99

 

 

THE GOSPEL ACCORDING TO CARMEN

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Carmen with Norman Parkinson in 1959. This picture was taken by Bronson Hartley, who createted the diving helmets.

 Last night, I had an experience rather akin to meeting your Fairy Godmother. I popped into the preview of London College of Fashion's new exhibition 'Carmen: A Life in Fashion'. Despite the many people much more important than myself who were clamouring to have a moment with Carmen Dell'Orefice, whose career has spanned over more than 60 years, I did manage to grab a  few moments in the velvety presence of the woman who is called The World's Oldest Supermodel. I cannot put into words Carmen's beauty and luminosity; she is like a superior, superhuman creature; a Queen Bee.Yet, in conversation she is a purveyor of compassionate words and is not afraid to share all the wisdom she has gathered over a lifetime in fashion.

Carmen shot by Tim Petersen in 2010

Another recent Tim Petersen shot

 When I asked her which decade was her favourite, out of all those she has worked through, she said NOW is the most exciting time for her. I can see the logic of this; when most people her age are enjoying their dotage and slowing down, she is doing something very different by continuing to work (realistically, this is perhaps more out of necessity than choice).

Carmen with Horst P Horst 1947

 She is blazing her own trail without really knowing where it might take her, a feeling most twenty-somethings are probably used to, less so her eighty year old contemporaries. Despite the fact that her most recent return to work was due to losing her life savings to Bernie Madoff, she insists that rather than being financially motivated, the continuation is part of a her ongoing reinvention of herself. 'Eighty to 100 will be be my most fascinating years!'.

Carmen in the early 1940s

This attitude is also reflected in the story of LCF's exhibition. Carmen's friend, the fashion illustrator David Downton, was at her apartment in New York and came across boxes full of photos from her career, stuffed away beneath her bed. Somebody who was more nostalgic might have carefully filed all their work but Carmen is no such woman.

From 1959, with under the bed crumples.

 Some of the photographs in the exhibition have little tears or marks where sellotape has been ripped off them. These are all endearing signs that Carmen's mind is firmly in the moment, rather than fussing about preserving the past. She was also incredibly enthusiatic about the prospect of her photographs being exhibited in the LCF space where young creatives have access to her archive and can be inspired.

Carmen dell'Orefice, photgraphed by Cecil Beaton in 1946 (Image from flickr.com)

 One of my favourite images from the exhibition is the Cecil Beaton, above, from 1946. It struck me that this could easily have been an editorial from 2012, showcasing Spring/Summer Erdem or Louis Vuitton. When I asked Carmen for her thoughts about this, she dismissively pointed out that 'Fashion is always being recycled'. She often has people tell her that 'they want to be just like her'. This is unsurprising given how in her presence, one feels enveloped in a cashmere blanket of glamour, a highly inimitable trait. But she retorts 'You weren't like me twenty years ago, why would you want to be like me now?'.

Carmen values the individuality of Daphne Guinness, who she says has made herself into a 'walking object'. "Daphne knows herself and has uncompromisingly taken that all the way," she says. Carmen believes we should all adopt our own version of this attitude; she tells me that she is always refining herself and casting a critical eye.

I shall leave you with Carmen's mantras, which she told me as she squeezed my hand, a truly magic moment:

Her style tip: 'Always be eliminating elements of your look, but don't tell anybody what you've eliminated, so that you have a mystery'

Have Courage

Don't be a sheep; 'I don't admire Daphne Guinness as such, but I do value her point of view on herself'

Know yourself and be who you truly are.

Live for now. I'm excited about now, why would I look back?

Live fearlessly.

.... Amen to that. 

'Carmen: A Life in Fashion' is on at London College of Fashion on John Princes Street from November 16th until January 14th- best of all, it's free!

Unless otherwise indicated, all images are kind courtesy of London College of Fashion.

HOW SWEET IS HARVEY NICHOLS?

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

Just back from the Harvey Nichols press day. Like all great department stores this one is a global institution, and a national treasure with branches across Britain. Therefore their press day is an opportunity to see what fashion lovers in Edinburgh, Birmingham, Manchester and London will gain access to next Spring. One of my discoveries is so fabulous I'm saving her until tomorrow for an in-depth look at her work, but the best of the rest is here for your pleasure...

Below is a truly spectacular print from young New York based Parisian Jospeh Altuzarra who won American fashion's most prestigious new talent award, the $300,000 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, last night. The pocket diva is going to be huge! Trust. One thing is for sure, his sexy tropicana chic will be a welcome lift when it hits the store next spring. Just how awesome is this print?

The print above came from a dress v similar to this one. (via catwalking.com)

Hello Joseph!  Lookin hawt in one of your dresses, yes? (from W Magazine via holymoly.com)

Joseph Altuzarra was not present at Harvey Nichols' press day. He was probably nursing a celebratory hangover in NYC but other designers of note were in attendance at the store. Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff, the designers behind Meadham Kirchhoff, turned up to see how Harvey Nichols, which had taken as inspiration for its press day their saccharine sweet Spring/Summer 2012 show. had handled it. Cue several arches of pastel coloured balloons, candy-floss, a balloon lady (see below) and lots of Meadham Kirchhoff's sickly-sweet Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Ben + Ed were on typical form. They informed me thay have a new PR, Black Frame in London and they are the only client of the London office. Black Frame reps Rodarte in New York. Things are definitely looking on the up and up for these two.

 Sweetie-pie chic by Meadham Kirchhoff at Harvey Nichols

Meadham Kirchhoff inspired Harvey Nichols to hire Twistina the Amazing Balloon Lady. She was ace!

Lastly, my third (but not final) inspirational Harvey Nicks  moment of the day was the young model and illustrator Naomi Preizler who created the little take-away sum-up of the press day below. She uses herself as a model in this illustration, but is also known to sketch fellow models backstage at the shows. She doesn't have a website for her illustration work, but hopefully this is only a matter of time. 

Naomi Preizler (Image from Marie Maud)

ART IN FASHION: SIMEON FARRAR AT THE BASEMENT GALLERY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Simeon Farrar at The Basement Gallery, in a t-shirt of his own design

Last week, I spent an afternoon with artist and fashion designer Simeon Farrar at his current exhibition at The Basement Gallery. The interaction between art and fashion is always hard to pin down; probably because there are so many ways that the two can be combined. So, I wanted to share Simeon with you because he is an artist who has carved out a popular fashion business by transferring what he does as an artist onto clothes.

The paint dripped shed forms the centrepiece of the exhibit, inside are Simeon's sketches of models.

'Of Rainbows and halos' is a return for Farrar 'The Artist' having focused on his fashion business for the past seven years. His last solo show was back in 2001. It is a kind of mini retrospective with work which he did before his foray into fashion, as well as pieces which he has worked on as part of displays and installations in the past few years.

A shopper from Simeon's weather themed SS12 collection- image by Richard Lonsdale

Farrar trained in Fine Art at the University for the Creative Arts in Farnham. From 1997- 2004, he was very much an artist, a versatile one at that; Farrar would prefer 'no labels' saying simply 'I'm an artist' rather than pigeon holing himself into categories such as 'painter', 'screen printer' etc. Indeed, his explorations of different techniques were what initially led him into fashion after he decided to make up some t-shirts. His success was virtually instantaneous and he was soon exhibiting at London Fashion Week. He calls it 'the biggest learning curve of my life'; he didn't even have an order book, but nevertheless received plenty of visits from buyers and was awarded the NewGen award three times.

The t-shirt which accompanies the exhibition: £50 at The Basement Gallery

Since then, Farrar's work has been bought by some of the world's coolest shops- Liberty in London  and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong amongst them. Although he would never claim to be any kind of fashion insider; he was recently approached by Colette's buyer at LFW and was the only one in the room not to recognise her. You may be most familiar with Farrar's 'Kate Mouse' character which he created last year as part of a nursery rhymes collection. He worked with Net-a-Porter to produce a t-shirt version which was sold in aid of the Japan Earthquake Relief appeal. Fashion-wise, it is this humour which Farrar puts into his prints which is his main attraction. Inside the shed are lots of prints of Simeon's model sketches- if you fancy one for your wall as well as your wardrobe then prices are between £30 and £75 depending on the size.

A halo print by Simeon Farrar. Available to buy from a selection at the exhibition

Kate Mouse at Net-a-Porter £50

 He has thrown himself behind efforts to fundraise for those affected by the earthquake, perhaps because a number of his stockists are in Japan. His right hand woman- womenswear designer and pattern cutter Mika Haverly- is also Japanese so the label has close ties in the country. I love the video below, by Richard Lonsdale, of the screen printing event he did back in April at Johnbull in Tokyo. Each of Simeon's t-shirts (his collection can be found at Young British Designers) is washed after printing so that the pattern becomes becomes completely unique. We compared some t-shirts when I met with Simeon and it really is amazing how the colours can blend so differently each time. This is one of the reasons why Farrar keeps all his printing in-house at his studio in Shoreditch; it is details like these which demonstrate the art aspect of the Simeon Farrar brand which he is determined to keep at the heart of what he does.


Simeon Farrar: Japan 日本 2011. John Bull, Daikanyama from The Field Office on Vimeo.

One of my favourite parts of the exhibition were the perfume bottles which Farrar originally created as part of an installation for Lane Crawford. He was interested in the way that smells jog our memories. One of my favourite literary moments ever comes in Proust when the smell of madeleines (little french cakes) cooking takes the narrator back to being a child. Perfumes are particularly good at evoking such remembrances, possibly because we tend to attach their smell so much to the person we know who wears it. Simeon asked people to write down the thoughts they had when they remembered the smell of somebody special. He then trapped these written thoughts into the bottles as he made them. There are also delicate scraps of fabric in the bottles, making for a quite beautiful and emotive display. Simeon has melted the bottles so that there is a sense of decay as they drip over the edge of the table and shelf on which they are displayed.

For Lane Crawford, the bottles were made into a chandelier which became a window display. Farrar is enthusiastic about the effect art like this can have on democratising fashion. 'People waiting at the bus stop outside the store would be looking in at the chandelier, trying to read all the little messages on the bottles' he told me, 'they would never have looked in that store otherwise, thinking it was beyond their reach'.

If you like the look of the bottles then purchasing them is up for negotiation.

At this exhibition, the perfume bottles neatly represent what Simeon Farrar in 2011 is all about; an artist who has successfully established a fashion label. He has relished the opportunity which the exhibition has given him to just do art, immersing himself for days in transforming the gallery space, away from the admin side of having a fashion brand. I asked if he felt that fashion was a phase in his life as an artist? 'I used to, yes, but now I employ people and it's doing well so I can't stop'. But now that the fashion side is ticking along quite nicely, I get the impression that Simeon will make sure he gets back being 'the artist' a bit more frequently. I could share more insights and stories from the exhibition with you, but really you should pop in yourselves to take a look.

Simeon Farrar: Of Rainbows and Halos is on at The Basement Gallery at 10 Newburgh Street until 24th November.