Camilla Morton is a wonderfully creative, exquisitely eccentric fashion writer who I have known for ever as we started out in our careers at the same time. Camilla has successfully made a name for herself as a fashion author, and I LOVE how she has reinvented the classic fairytales dovetailing them with the stories of modern day fashion designers careers.
“I am enchanted by how clothes make you feel, and the people behind it,” says Morton. “Because sometimes the magic and the art of creation gets forgotten in the rush to find the next big thing.” of course she is so right, and Camilla makes magic of Manolo's story as well as reminding me of one of my favourite fairy tales from the Brothers Grimm.
The book is packed with Manolo's signature vibrant illustrations, (above) depicting scenes from his life - his glamorous mother making her own shoes to combat wartime restrictions in style; an inspiring visit to the Theatre de Paris to watch Romy Schneider and Alain Delon and his now legendary meeting US Vogue editor Diana Vreeland who instructed Manolo to focus on footwear. Diana was instrumental in making his career.
"I would have gotten away with it, too, if it wasn't for you meddling kids."
Scooby Doo Villain (Hanna Barbera)
Couldn't revisit The Elves and the Shoemaker without a look at a Hanna Barbera 1980s retelling of the tale. This is the TV of my youth. It doesn't get better. (Or schmaltzier.)
We are getting massively overexcited about Christmas here at FEAL HQ today, with plans for a Christmas jumper competition in full swing and festive songs blaring out- I've already heard Mariah Carey's 'All I Want for Christmas' approximately 15 times today. However, the world of fashion does not stop for mulled wine and mince pies just yet... Here's the week's news.
Yesterday, the winner's of the NEWGEN sponsorship for AW12 were announced. The FashEd was on the panel and is very excited about seeing the winners' shows and presentations come February. This is how the line-up looks for the ladies...
Backstage at David Koma SS12. Neon plus Maori tattoos= amazing. Image from (lloyd-evans.com)
Catwalk sponsorship:
David Koma
Holly Fulton
J.JS Lee
J.W. Anderson
Michael van der Ham
Simone Rocha
Presentation sponsorship:
Christopher Raeburn
Thomas Tait
Installation sponsorship:
Nasir Mazhar
SISTER by SIBLING
Exhibition sponsorship:
Huishan Zhang
James Long
Lucas Nascimento
Palmer//Harding
Tim Soar Woman
Gaga in Rocha SS12 (Image from thinkboutthings.com)
Simone Rocha's SS12 collection was greeted with rapturous responses from the fashion media. In the January issue of ELLE magazine, Lady Gaga continues to showcase Rocha's designs (she was wearing a different SS12 piece in London last week). I went to J.JS Lee's presentation at the last LFW and am still thinking about her candy floss inspirations. So the Simone Rocha/ J.JS Lee back-to-back show in February will be penned in ink on our schedule. The FashEd calls the duo 'London's Young Minimalists'.
Image from style.com
While we are still obsessing about Florence in a shell and October's Under the Sea themed show in general, Mr Lagerfeld has moved on swiftly; on Tuesday he unveiled his Paris-Bombay collection for pre-fall at the Grand Palais, transformed from pearlescent sea bed to Maharajah banquet. Pre-fall and resort collections have been touted as the place to find wearable, commercial pieces but Lagerfeld's take on Indian dress poo poos on that idea. However, this DOES show a streak of genius because India is one of the biggest emerging markets for luxury retailers so appealing to them is very shrewd. The beauty which results is a pleasing addition. Sam McKnight worked on the hair for the show and told Vogue that he was inspired by 'Sadhu Holy Men and Rajastani Princesses'
Images from Sam McKnight on Vogue.com
We've been poring over Helmut Newton images all week- look out for more on our Tumblr later. So it was fitting that today we got a peek at the shots which will grace Pirelli's 2012 calendar. Ok, so it's basically lots of models with beautiful bodies, which is something in itself after news came this week that some clothes are now being advertised on digitally created bodies, yes we're talking to you H&M. Lisa Armstrong argues that these pictures are all about promoting a body perfect enough for porn. I agree- especially given that they're for Pirelli, thus blatantly targeted at blokes. But I cannot help but appreciate these images of Kate Moss (who looks divine, but has roundness where many models do not) and Saskia de Brauw. What do you think?
Saskia de Brauw (images from daily mail)
Those McQueen skullcaps seem to have captured the imagination of cover stylists for January. I know I've already mentioned Gaga in Elle but not only is she rocking Rocha but McQueen is the star of the front cover. Gaga is bedecked in the coral gown and eye mask. Meanwhile, Rooney Mara is fully skull-capped for Dazed and Confused. Quite beautiful...
January Dazed, image from www.racked.com
Gaga by Matt Irwin (from fashiongonerogue.com)
They say that economic downturns can be good for some. Given all the pre-sale discounts, you'd think that retail wasn't one of them. On the whole, I don't think it is but there's always one.... and it had to be Mulberry. The luxury accessories company reported a 62% increase in profits to £72m. We can see why too; the firm which originated in Somerset has fashion appeal. Editors and celebrities flock to the LFW show which always has an elaborate theme which is hyped weeks before when invites are sent out and they are so amazing that everyone tweets pictures of them. But Mulberry also has a more classic customer base which is attracted by its sturdily made pieces. A visit to the store could provide a tan saddle bag or purple python piece of arm candy. Somehow, the two sit very happily together. It probably helps that the Princess of Selling Clothes, Kate Cambridge/ Middleton has been spotted many times over the years with a Mulberry accessory. Most recently, setting off for Canada with a navy Polly Push Pocket. Then last week, she wore (yawn, sorry, you've probably heard it all before) Mulberry's teal tea dress to meet key members of the media at Buckingham Palace. With that seal of approval, we don't expect to see profits plummeting anytime soon.
Celebrity and witty design has proven a money spinning combination for Mulberry, illustrated here as Emma Hill, Creative Director poses with Kristen Stewart and Kate (image from elle.com)
Tippi Hedren in The Birds (image from tvrage.com)
You know by now that I find it hard to resist putting up pictures of old school movie stars once in a while. Happily, the news that Sienna Miller will play Hitchcock heroine Tippi Hedren in a new film about the director's obsession with her, is a perfect excuse for another.
Finally, if you'e ever wondered how 12 models are shot for 12 pictures for the world's most famous calendar then watch on...
Today I bring you a modern and elegant lace T-Shirt by the French brand American Retro. T-shirts made using luxury fabrics are big fashion news for Spring/Summer 2012. They form a key component of "New Easy" one of the biggest themes to emerge from of the catwalk shows. Basically if its easy to pull-on and wear, it's in. The twist is the garment which could be a simple T-shirt, tank, jogger shaped trousers, shift dress or little flared skirts are all created with luxury fabrics and often in highly decorative form with embroideries, sequins, digital prints, or simply great textiles. It is great to see a move away from the obsession with decades as reference. This new mood in fashion is a marriage of the divine and the practical to create something fresh and modern.
I leave you now with a slice of beauty and heart-wrenching sadness from the ever-wonderful natural history department of the BBC. The show Frozen Planet finished airing in Britain this week, for our international readers YOU HAVE TO SEE IT. This short video is the talk of Twitter today.
The FashEd and I were stopped in our tracks today as we browsed in Matches and were bedazzled by this Anya Hindmarch festive clutch. Anya does have a knack of creating these need-it-now accessories. She seems to consistently be able to produce a new purse or trinket or bag which the ladies who love her will keep coming back for, even if it's only a slight tweak on what came before. Basically, we see this bag and we think 'That will be just the cherry I need on my sartorial christmas cake'.
And we can't show you red glitter without bringing in The Wizard of Oz... How tragic is this quote from Tinman?
'Now I know I have a heart, because it's breaking' Tinman in Wizard of Oz
And Judy Garland as Dorothy fighting with The Wicked Witch over the original red glitter accessory.....
I would love to tell you that in a couple of weeks, these skis and I will be off to spend days attached to one another, speeding through fresh snow and 'earning' copious amounts of mulled wine and hot chocolate. But that is mere fantasy. A girl can dream and Chanel skis are not such a bad place to begin. Although perhaps an actual skiing lesson would be more appropriate. I get the feeling that for those who do take to the pistes, it is just as much about the chic-ness of the attire as it is about the mastery of the black run. And I know that with these powering me along, I would be far more inclined to put in the necessary graft.
I do wish that Mr Lagerfeld would make a ski film- the Chanel monchromes couldn't ask for a more perfect setting than a pristine mountain top. However, he did make 'The Tale of a Fairy' to showcase the label's 2012 Cruise offering which is in store now. The short film stars many Lagerfeld (and FEAL) favourites including Amanda Harlech, Kristen McMenamy and Freja. The Cruise collection's traditional function, to provide the winter holidaying rich with an appropriate wardrobe, could easily be turned on its head to encompass the ultimate skiwear, and apres-ski, pieces couldn't it Karl? Maybe next year?
'If you've never seen an elephant ski, you've never
I adore Dominic Jones and his jewellery. I've known him since he's started out and remember really clearly being at the launch of the milliner Steven Jones' perfume for Comme des Garcons at Dover Street Market in 2009 and chatting with a boy who dyed his hair grey who was telling me all about how he wanted to make designer jewellery accessible to his own age group by using non-precious metals as a base. That was the beginning of my friendship with the talented Mr Jones, who I swiftly put on the pages of Grazia. Probably a bit too swiftly, as the shops he had sold to hadn't taken delivery of his talon earrings and claw rings thast became an instant hit. It has all turned out really well. Dom is an original talent and his creative output has improved season on season. These "Dangling Cross" earrings are edgily beautiful, and I sincerely hope they will be dangling from my lobes on Christmas day, The relevant family member has been informed!
"We can play it safe, or play it cool, follow the leader, or make up all the rules, whatever you want, the choice is yours, so choose.." Beth Ditto, The Gossip,from "Music For Men" Track 1: Heavy Cross
This is Dominic's Autumn/fall Winter 2011 fashion film, starring his old friend Florence Welch.
Not so long ago, The Christmas Jumper was little more than the attire worn by the most embarrassing middle aged male at your family gathering on 25th December. It was definitely not Fashion. But now thanks to a heady mixture of irony and nostalgia, as well as The Killing, Colin Firth and Raf Simons, The Christmas Jumper has become one of the most lusted after winter pieces. The more nerdy your knit, the cooler you are. Naturally, Topshop have got in on the act. Their selection feature penguins, reindeer and, our favourite, snowmen. Luckily, the knit is a bit finer and the look a little more refined that a truly70s itchfest.
Today's chosen quote comes from the FashEd's favourite Christmas jumper wearer, Val Doonican. He strikes me as being quite representative of the original embarrassing bloke types, especially given the one and only quote which is attributed to him. Read it imagining a red faced, guffawing, beer-bellied, sherry drinker and you'll realise how far the humble festive jumper has come...
'Golf is like an 18-year-old girl with big boobs. You know it's wrong but you can't keep away from her'
And we couldn't have a snowman jumper POST without providing you with Howard Blake's Walking in the Air from The Snowman.
It's the fashion book of the year from former French Vogue Editor Carine Roitfeld. This tome is full of fabulous photos, anecdotes and mementoes from her career thus far as well as intimate pictures with her family and friends. We think anybody who loves fashion would regret not having this close to hand.
'Fashion is all about happiness. It's fun. It's important. But it's not medicine' Donatella Versace
Lady Gaga's new video is so many things, on so many levels... but she does confirm that 'mint green is gonna be huge next season'... Her 13-minute long Marry The Night Video really needs a Sunday-like time void to be properly viewed.
The Fashion Editor at Large blog is the independent work of Melanie Rickey, the views are my own. The Fashion Junior at Large is Bethan Holt. PORTRAIT: Neil Haynes
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