THE WEEK IN FASHION: 16th-20th JANUARY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Happy Almost-Weekend...

This week we start you off with a delightful preview of the award winning documentary about Bill Cunningham the original street style photographer; the film has its British premier on February the first. Bill is a living legend.

"Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life."

 Bill Cunningham

Chanel is off to Japan! Lagerfeld and his team have planned three events as a special treat for their Easternmost fans. In March, there will a winter couture show, a pop-up shop and an exhibition entitled 'The Little Black Jacket'. The exhibition, on for seven weeks, coincides with a book of the same name which Lagerfeld is working on with Carine Roitfeld, showing celebrities and other brand favourites, in their Chanel jackets.

Chanel waves the flag for Japan

More bumper business news from across the retail spectrum this week as Burberry, ASOS and Primark all posted recession defying results. At Burberry, there was a 22% increase in sales with particular strength, unsurprisingly, across Asia. It's the brand's stalwart pieces which are performing best- coats and luggage. While it is well-acknowledged that luxury labels aren't suffering as much as might be expected from the global downturn, word on the high street has been somewhat bleaker; Peacocks was the latest store to go into administration this week. However, Primark and ASOS are proof that the fittest survive. Primark announced a 16% leap in profits for the last quarter while ASOS saw an 18% increase in its share price after profits rose 10%, thanks in the most part to its global reach.

Cara Delevingne and Eddie Redmayne in their trench macs for the SS12 campaign (image from fashiongonerogue.com)

 After much wrangling amongst the organisers of the big four fashion weeks, the clash of dates which looked set to overshadow the SS13 season has been resolved. For attendees, this means that fashion month will kick off earlier than usual with the New York shows beginning on September 6th. Steven Kol, CEO at the CFDA rightfully pointed out that 'there's no value for the cities to compete'. So, there will be no choosing between Katrantzou and Gucci, or Pilotto and Versace for those who skip to all four events.

Piero Tosi with director Luchino Visconti and Dirk Bogarde on the set of Death in Venice in 1971 (image from vogue.it)

 Louis Vuitton has teamed up  with Rome's Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia (Italian National Film School) to bring the worlds of fashion and film closer together. Over three years, there will be a number of projects to support Italian film and young filmmakers, such as workshops and scholarships. One of the first schemes to get underway will be a costume workshop focusing on 17th century design, with Italian costume designer Piero Tosi acting as a key participant. Like Tods, which is in the process of taking on responsibility to restore the Colosseum, Vuitton has taken it upon itself to contribute private money to protect another integral part of Italian culture, at a time when the public purse cannot stretch to such limits.

Hatmaking at the film school (imae from WWD.com)

On January 24th, a Prada museum will pop-up in Paris for 24 hours. Conceived by Francesco Vezzoli and the AMO Think Tank it could have the potential to create a bit of a 'moment' as its brings together films and sculptures which represent iconic women including the likes of Lady Gaga. The event will kick off with an exclusive dinner and club night before opening up to the public, who will now doubt rock up early to see the invited guests tumbling out. The three museum spaces, historic, contemporary and forgotten, will provide the backdrop for Prada and Vezzoli's message about femininity now. It may sound a bit obscure, but anything with the Mrs Prada stamp on has got to be fab. Talking of Miuccia, she got herself in hot water this week when she appeared to criticise the Met's new exhibit which will compare her with Elsa Schiaparelli. She told WWD:

“It’s too formal; they are focused on similarities, comparing feather with feather, ethnic with ethnic, but they are not taking into consideration that we are talking about two different eras, and that [Schiaparelli and I] are total opposite,” said the designer before her show on Sunday. “I told them, but they don’t care,” she said with a shrug, resigned rather than upset.

A statement was later released by Prada which claimed her comments were 'taken out of context' and that she was  'honored and proud to be taking part in the exhibition'.

Miuccia Prada on the cover of iD in April 2009, designed by Francesco Vezzoli (image from designscene.net)

After last week's quick dip into the sartorial goings-on in the US Presidential election, FEAL's world news radar turns to the Olympics  where a row has broken out among the boxing community. The point of contention is whether female contenders should wear shorts or skirts. And it's not just a question of what is the best performing item, it does actually come down to the 'fashion' element. Skirts were first worn so that spectators could differentiate between the boy and girl boxers. Polish and Romanian coaches say that skirts should be worn because they create 'a more womanly impression' and are 'more elegant'. We're not sure that elegance is the first priority of any sportsperson looking to win a title so we're supporting  Elizabeth Plank's petition for boxers to able to choose, just like every other girl can!

The Menswear season is in full-swing, moving to Paris yesterday after Milan earlier in the week. At Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones fused Japanese and Parisian influences; the work of illustrator Antonio Lopez was cited by the designer  as a starting point. Further along, the Okujun silk spinning was used to create an ivory suit. The technique is UNESCO protected, and only 20cm of yarn can be produced in one day. The Vuitton show also mirrored a wider trend which began in womenswear to use more Asian models on catwalks.

One of the Asian models who walked at Vuitton (image from WWD.com)

Love this high shine parka/anorak, a nod to Japan on the belt (image from WWD.com)

 Lanvin is launching its first eyewear collection and has made a video to underline the artisan approach it's taken to the range. Along with De Rigo, Lanvin has applied the same levels of artistry to the glasses as it would to its clothes. While the video may not have the catchiness of the dance of late 2011, it serves to remind us of the level of craft which sets designers like Lanvin apart. The question on everyone's lips, which ones has Alber ordered?

A TALE OF TWO BERLINS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Lupe Fiasco performs in Berlin (image from flickr)

It's nearing midnight, somewhere in Berlin, and it's drizzling with rain. The taxi pulls up outside what looks like an abandoned courtyard. Once you push through the gates, a crowd can be spotted huddled in the far corner. On the expanse of whitewashed wall above them, 'Vans Party' is projected, the only clue that something vaguely organised might be going on here. There is much confusion about how one gets into this thing, but once inside and wristbanded, you enter a labyrinth of wide corridors, crammed with hip-label and vintage clad boys and girls, beers in hand, chatting over the music coming from somewhere, in the darkness. Off to the left there's a room displaying Vans trainers. Further along, there is a chaotic bar where only waving a white wristband in the face of the guy serving will get you a drink in a timely manner. If you elbow your way through further then you realise where that beat you've been feeling since you entered is coming from. It's a vast warehouse, even fuller than those corridors. Everyone is bopping away to hip hop stars Lupe Fiasco and Mos Def. I sense that by day, lots of the crowd here have been hanging out at Bread and Butter, the huge tradeshow for contemporary and streetwear brands which is on at the moment in the city.

From Livin Cool

Fast forward ten hours or so, and Dorothee Schumacher's AW12 show is well underway in the Mercedes Benz venue at Berlin Fashion Week. The label has 53 stores across Germany and many more across the world. So there is, naturally, nothing niche about the collection. This is stuff which will sell to women across a range of ages and tastes and situatiosn. There are some great trousers with stripes down the the side, or made in silky pyjama fabrics. There are big furry hats, which seem to be an everywoman's version of the one Miuccia Prada showed for AW11.

Schumacher

Schumacher

Schumacher

Later on, the Laurel show, with its sequined, feathered and tasselled party dresses, furry accessories and good coats, confirms my theory; that Berlin Fashion Week, is about the side of Germany we are most used to hearing about, rather than that scene I got a teeny glimpse of last night. It makes complete economic sense. And that is no bad thing at a time when every industry has to show that it can prop itself up. Women from Germany, and further afield, will buy the clothes shown at fashion week. This IS an unusual phenomenon because most of the time, the collections shown during fashion weeks will not be worn by the vast majority of women, they are mere fantasy.

Laurel

Laurel

Laurel

Two other labels I saw yesterday, Rena Lange and Kaviar Gauche had more edge. Bridalwear designers, Kaviar Gauche, began with a model/ priestess swinging incense down the catwalk. Smoke billowed around as the collection unfolded- that robe theme continued with swishing gowns in the lighest, and often most transparent, of fabrics- to the glee of the Daily Mail today. The SS12 Under the Sea theme was picked up in sea anenome dresses, which unfortunately fell apart as the model walked. But there were jewel encrusted bodices which gave a luxe element.

Kaviar Gauche

Kaviar Gauche

Rena Lange was by far the most colourful show of the day with doses of hot pink and tangerine as well as splashes of bright blue. Print combinations were rather clever. There were still plenty of sure sellers; little tweed suits and work-ready tailoring.

Rena Lange

Rena Lange

Rena Lange

As I explained before, this was my first visit to Berlin and these are just my impressions of what the German fashion scene is like. Of course, every country and city has its different cultures, you only have to look at East London vs. West London to see that. But in Germany, the separation of the two seems extreme. It's fascinating and perhaps shows how fashion rellects society on a wider level. Germany has a turbulent recent history; it's only been a country as it is now for 20 years or so. It would be stupid to think that there wouldn't be a sociological reaction going on because of that which wasn't refelcted in fashion. The fact that Berlin Fashion Week is sponsored by one of the country's biggest car manufacturers, Mercedes Benz, ties it into that notion of Germany's economic success- it is almost singlehandedly keeping the Eurozone afloat. But then there is this whole other scene going on, which cannot be ignored.

P.S Many thanks to Mercedes-Benz for taking me to Berlin- it'd be fab if you had accessible wi-fi in your lounge so I could have blogged this straight from Berlin yesterday!

A TUMBLE FROM A DAY IN BERLIN:

Discarded flounces from dresses at Kaviar Gauche

Smoking on the Laurel catwalk

Bekketts

Miu Mius for magpies

The Best Dressed FROW-er

Lara Stone, the face of Mercedes-Benz, makes an appearence

A POSTCARD FROM BERLIN

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Hello from Berlin! I arrived an hour or so ago for my first visit here. I won't be here long- just a day of shows at Berlin Fashion Week tomorrow, courtesy of Mercedes Benz- so as tempting as it was to curl up in my room for a pre-dinner nap, I thought it would take the opportunity to see any sights I could while I had some free time.

Luckily, I'm staying very close to the fashion week action which also happens to be right next to one of Berlin's biggest landmarks, the Brandenburg Gate. Before I came, I'd heard a lot about Berlin as a city of art and creativity and partying. While I never doubted those descriptions, it seemed odd to me because Germany is portrayed as so industrial and economically strong. I found it hard to envisage how the capital of a country like that could have such an incongruous reputation.The area I'm staying in feels quite corporate but I expect I may see the other side of the city later tonight. I'm interested to see how German fashion designers approach that dichotomy. I'll admit I'm no expert  on the labels I'll be seeing tomorrow but in a way I'm glad that I won't be going with preconceptions. The big four fashion weeks have such solid (if unnecessarily stereotypical identities); London is where new talent grows, New York is easy, sporty and wearable, Milan is glamour and Paris is chic old school. What is Berlin though? I'll see tomorrow.

WHAT I'VE SEEN SO FAR...

Flowers laid in memory of political prisoners

 My home tomorrow...

The Brandenburg Gate...

I'm not exactly sure what these Fundus Verkauf are but I think it's to do with a shop selling opera props, amazing!

 Apparently these segments of the Berlin Wall are dotted around the city. I love the graffited face on this one outside my hotel.

SHOW & TELL: MEADHAM KIRCHHOFFS HYPER PRETTY SS12

Posted by Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large

At this time of year fashion media people start mobilising towards attending fashion shows. The real die-hards will already be on the road in Milan and Florence at the mens shows, and are about to head to the Paris mens shows followed by the Haute Couture and pre-fall. They will soon be speaking incomprehensible fashion. At FEAL we'll be keeping a close eye on these shows while bringing you all that is exciting, new, interesting and thought-provoking in fashion now.

To kick off our coverage of the Spring/Summer 2012 collections I want to start with our old NEWGEN gang members Edward Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff of Meadham Kirchhoff who are deservedly and swiftly gaining a cult following. I've been following their work since pretty much the beginning of their careers. Their S/S '12 collection of hyper femininity was a social and fashion media triumph which disseminated through the Web and found a home in the hearts of disaffected teenagers and Riot Grrls of the old and new school around the world.

The Riot Grrrl manifesto 

Theres a lot of women and girls out there who don't buy into the idea of what a modern woman is supposed to be according to the fashion and mainstream media. With their work Ed and Ben give those woman a connection to catwalk fashion they would not otherwise get. By signposting their way to Courtney Love, Tavi Gevinson the Riot Girl manifesto and the Japanese Lolita subculture, MK are giving disaffected alt. fashion lovers a home.

                                               Meadham Kirchhoff SS/12 ( images: topshop.com)

"Its a celebration of girls. Of the ridiculous artifice and expectation of female beauty. A celebration and disgust of it. So yeah...the normal." - Ed Meadham

Since airing this collection last September the designers have been picked up by the London office of New York based marketing company Black Frame whose other fashion clients are Rodarte and Visionaire. Currently the designers are simultaneously creating both their Autumn/Winter 2012 collection and the next edition of "A Magazine Curated by ".  I'm looking forward to both; especially as one of my best friends Brix will be in their magazine.

A "Lolita" girl in Tokyo wearing the brand Angelic Pretty 

The Angelic Pretty Dolls.

Meadham Kirchhoff have been considered a bit like Marmite in the fashion media up to now; but 2012 will be their year to go global as they now connect to their fans and therefore to their marketplace.  Not long ago an A-list editor said to me in an exasperated tone "I can't understand why you like Meadham Kirchhoff". Now they feature prominently in her magazine's editorials. That says it all.

There is much to appreciate with the work of Ben and Ed this season, both intellectually and fashion wise.  But don't look too far beyond the cupcake platforms and Hello Kitty inspired knits. They are too brilliant not to be enjoyed.

Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/Summer 2012 shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood. Whats not to love?

I do want to share the fabulously incongruous first drop of their S/S 2012 collection with you though. Interestingly, rather than commence the season by displaying their luxurious high-end pieces (with their equally luxurious prices), Net-a-Porter.com have smartly realised (as has Topshop who tapped them for two previous collaborations) that MK's fan base is not your average high ticket fashion consumer lady. She is definitely more punk rock than glossy fashion maven. Hence Meadham Kirchhoff fans will appreciate a hyper sweet T-Shirt perhaps especially if they have to scrape their pennies together to buy one. Anyway, here they are. Which one do you want? I adore the "Love is Revenge" T-Shirt. (P.S I've just checked and they are already selling out fast, especially in smaller sizes)

Love is Revenge t-shirt £130

Kitty tee £130

Riot Not Diet £130

FEAL'S TOP 12 GOLDEN GLOBES FAVOURITES

Posted by Melanie Rickey & Bethan Holt, Fashion Editor + Fashion Junior at Large

It's January and, therefore, the film and TV industry's awards and party season is getting into full swing. We are currently imagining the atmosphere above L.A is more hairspray than smog. Last night the Golden Globes, the event seen as the precursor to the Oscars, took place took place in Hollywood though there were other significant get-dressed-up events too. But the Golden Globes is what we're interested in. It was surreal to wake up to a Twitter feed buzzing with Tweets from people still out on the razz in LA at the post Golden Globes parties. 

Apart from the news about who won what and what that all means for the Oscars, the talk from the GG's is all about the red carpet style. Unlike catwalk and high street fashion, red carpet choices don't change much. You could look at the Golden Globes gowns from five years ago  - long dresses, up-dos, diamonds - and the changes would not be anywhere near as obvious as if you compared LouisVuitton even from one season to the next. 

Indeed, red carpet style takes only the merest nod from catwalk fashion. For actresses the objective is not  to be 'on trend', (as it is in their off-duty ensembles) so much as just looking movie star fabulous and making sure their full-length gown, evening bag, shoes, hair and make-up works in harmony to create a flattering, beautiful look that gives good photo from multiple angles - not just the front on hand-on-hip-one-foot-in-front position. This is easier said than done. We've included a full list of the winners at the bottom of this post (congrats Idris Alba and Jean Dujardin, we love you!) after we've shown you our Top 9 favourite (and not so favourite) DRESSES!  And our top two tuxedos. Do you agree?

1. ROONEY MARA IN NINA RICCI

It's good to see the work of one of my favourite designers, Peter Copping of Nina Ricci, on the red carpet. - MR

2. ZOOEY DESCHANEL IN PRADA (PLUS TUX NAILS)

J'adore Zooey's quirky style - MR 

From Zooey's Twitter

Someone with a sense of quirky humour on the red carpet? Go Zooey! BH

3. JESSICA BIEL IN ELIE SAAB

Her undone hair works for us at FEAL HQ 

 4. DIANNA AGRON IN GILES

Our very own Giles Deacon on the Hollywood red carpet!  

5. EVAN RACHEL WOOD IN GUCCI PREMIERE

This is a beautiful, classic pose. Gorgeous feathers and fab colour with her alabaster skin. BH

 6. ANDREA RISEBOROUGH IN VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL

Historical referencing, but a bit further back than the 30s Wallis Simpson she plays in Madonna's film W.E. A good red lip is the cherry on the cake. BH

7. ROMOLA GARAI IN ALESSANDRA RICH

This is actually looks modern yet appropriate and pretty- moving on the red carpet 'look'

BH

8. MICHELLE WILLIAMS IN JASON WU

The cute headband make the devore column a bit more interesting. BH

 9. ANGELINA JOLIE IN ATELIER VERSACE

Angelina and colour... It's a rare but happy sight BH

10. EMMA STONE IN LANVIN 

Thanks to Verena Hafner who posted in the comment thread below, Emma Stone has made a belated entry into the FEAL Golden Globes top 10 best-dressed actresses. The dress, created by Alber Elbaz, might be a simple column shape, but the pleated damson and raspberry tulle combination is beautifully luxurious, and don't get me started on the belt! Love. MR

THE BEST MAN NO. 1.... MATT LEBLANC FOR THE NAVY

THE BEST MAN NO.2.... JEAN DUJARDIN... FOR THE GOOD POSING

AND THE ONES WE'RE NOT SO SURE ABOUT....

MERYL STREEP IN ALESSANDRA RICH

We're very happy about the choice of designer, Alessandra Rich is on the up. This looked great from a distance and is a great dress for her shape but close-up it the fabric looked unglamorous, we're not sure it was quite the one for Meryl.

 FRIEDA PINTO IN PRADA

Part of us feels like this is very chic and a nice departure from glitz and flesh but it's also stiff and unflattering on her tiny frame.

 

 TILDA SWINTON IN HAIDER ACKERMAN

The shape is fab and Tilda cannot really do any wrong. The lilac colour is so now; pretty and icy at the same time. It's just that the colour plus the jacket/ fishtail skirt seems, we hate to say it, a little bit Mother of the Bride. On its own and in a different context, the jacket could win the prize of best Jacket In the World.

THE WINNERS...

MOTION PICTURES

- Picture, Drama: The Descendants.
- Picture, Musical or Comedy: The Artist.
- Actor, Drama: George Clooney, The Descendants.
- Actress, Drama: Meryl Streep, The Iron Lady.
- Director: Martin Scorsese, Hugo.
- Actor, Musical or Comedy: Jean Dujardin, The Artist.
- Actress, Musical or Comedy: Michelle Williams, My Week With Marilyn.
- Supporting Actor: Christopher Plummer, Beginners.
- Supporting Actress: Octavia Spencer, The Help.
- Foreign Language: A Separation.
- Animated Film: The Adventures of Tintin.
- Screenplay: Woody Allen, Midnight in Paris.
- Original Score: Ludovic Bource, The Artist.
- Original Song: "Masterpiece" (music and lyrics by Madonna, Julie Frost, Jimmy Harry, W.E.


TELEVISION
- Series, Drama: Homeland, Showtime.
- Actor, Drama: Kelsey Grammer, Boss.
- Actress, Drama: Claire Danes, Homeland.
- Actor, Musical or Comedy: Matt LeBlanc, Episodes.
- Actress, Musical or Comedy: Laura Dern, Enlightened.
- Miniseries or Movie: Downton Abbey (Masterpiece)," PBS.
- Actor, Miniseries or Movie: Idris Elba, Luther.
- Actress, Miniseries or Movie: Kate Winslet, Mildred Pierce.
- Supporting Actress, Miniseries or Movie: Jessica Lange, American Horror Story
- Supporting Actor, Miniseries or Movie: Peter Dinklage, Game of Thrones


Images from Getty, Daily Mail, Grazia Daily, Makeuptalk.com, www.celebuzz.com